Noah Fecks
The first New York Oyster Week, celebrating our city’s special history with the salty bivalve while examining preservation efforts, is upon us. Until Sat. 29, there’ll be “oyster-centric” events in and around the city. But these East Village oyster specials can be had year-round.
Mermaid Inn
96 Second Avenue, near Fifth Street; (212) 674-5870
At this neighborhood fixture, you can pledge allegiance to the East Coast or West Coast: Barcat oysters, from the east, are offered for $1 each while Chefs Creek oysters, from the west, are $1.75 each during the “Happy Hour and a Half”: Monday through Thursday from 5.30 p.m. to 7 p.m. and Friday through Sunday from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m.
Desnuda – Winebar & Cevicheria
122 East Seventh Street, near Avenue A; (212) 254-3515
It’s happy days at the Bourgeois Pig’s dark and sexy sister bar, which serves Beau Soleil oysters on the half shell with ginger shallot, relish and chipotle mignonette, Sunday from 2 p.m. to midnight and Monday 6 p.m. to midnight. Order a glass of wine from their selection of South American varieties and you can get a dozen oysters for $1 each. Read more…
Laura E. Lee Jack’s, 101 Second Ave.
Jack’s Luxury Oyster Bar, at 101 Second Avenue, is in the East Village, but not of the East Village. Jack’s introduces itself with the false modesty of a neighborhood speakeasy: The plain white door bears no sign, and the chief adornment of the facade is the air conditioner’s ventilation unit. The word “Luxury” is a sly joke as it applies to décor; it is meant to be taken with deadly seriousness, however, when it comes to food.
Jack’s has the most refined cuisine in the East Village, save for Degustation, around the corner on East 5th and also owned by restauranteur Jack Lamb, and perhaps also David Chang’s several Momofuku restaurants. The format at Jack’s, as at Degustation, is small-scale plates, though Jack’s is surely one of the city’s few seafood tapas places. The combination of small plates and a small menu means that a party of four can eat practically everything Jack’s serves, though a sounder approach might be to order two or three each of five or so dishes.
My wife and I invited our friends Roberta and Jerry, who say proudly that they never eat out. Jack’s, consequently, blew their minds. The first dish to arrive was the roasted oysters, which are served in their shell on a bed of peppercorns in a tureen, thus creating the momentary illusion that you have much more to eat than in fact you do. The oysters are made with chorizo, setting up a glorious battle between plump brininess and sharp smokiness. But there was much more. “I just got a whiff of something,” Jerry said. “I think it’s some kind of cheese.” Read more…